The Encomenda System: Cape Verde’s Contrabando de Amizade
In the bustling ports of Lisbon, the quiet neighborhood streets of Pawtucket, and the sandy stretches of Praia, a unique ritual unfolds whenever a plane touches down or a ship docks. It involves blue plastic barrels, oversized suitcases packed to the bursting point, and a complex web of social obligations. This is the world of the encomenda—a system of informal courier exchange that has served as the lifeblood of the Cape Verdean diaspora for decades.
Often referred to as “contrabando de amizade” (smuggling of friendship), this practice is far more than a simple logistics network. It is a profound cultural institution that bridges the Atlantic, sustaining families, preserving flavors, and reinforcing the “Morabeza” (hospitality) that defines the archipelago’s identity. For a nation with more citizens living abroad than on its ten islands, the encomenda is the thread that keeps the tapestry from unraveling.
The Genesis of a Transoceanic Lifeline
Cape Verde’s history is inextricably linked to migration. From the whaling shifts of the 19th century that drew men to New England to the labor migrations to Europe and other African nations in the 20th century, Cape Verdeans have always been a people on the move. However, leaving the islands never meant leaving the culture behind.
The encomenda system arose out of necessity. In the mid-20th century, official postal services were unreliable, expensive, and slow. Furthermore, the specific items Cape Verdeans craved—homegrown corn for cachupa, dried fish (peixe seco), or locally made grogue—were not available in the supermarkets of Rotterdam or Boston. Conversations would begin with a simple question: “Who is traveling soon?”
This birthed a social contract. If you were traveling back to the islands, you carried “encomendas” (orders/packages) for friends and neighbors: clothes, electronics, or medicines. If you were returning to the diaspora, your bags were filled with the scents and tastes of home. This was “contrabando” not in a criminal sense, but in an informal sense—bypassing commercial channels to maintain the intimacy of a small community.
The Blue Barrel: An Icon of the Diaspora
If the encomenda system had a physical mascot, it would be the blue industrial plastic drum. For Cape Verdeans in America and Europe, shipping a “barrel” is a rite of passage. These barrels are packed with mathematical precision: bags of rice and flour at the bottom, canned goods and soaps in the middle, and gently used clothing or new sneakers tucked into the crevices.
The arrival of a barrel in Mindelo or Assomada is a communal event. It represents months of saving by the relative abroad and provides weeks of sustenance for the family at home. Economists often focus on monetary remittances—the cash sent via Western Union—but the “in-kind” remittances of the encomenda system are arguably just as vital to the domestic economy of Cape Verde.
“Contrabando de Amizade”: The Cultural Weight of a Favor
The term contrabando de amizade perfectly captures the emotional weight of these transactions. To carry an encomenda is to carry a responsibility. It is an act of “djunta mon” (joining hands), the Cape Verdean philosophy of mutual aid.
The Social Currency
In this system, money rarely changes hands for the service itself. Instead, the “courier”—usually just a friend or a cousin of a friend—is paid in social capital. By carrying a heavy suitcase full of gifts, the traveler strengthens their ties to the community. They are welcomed with open arms, fed the best meals, and guaranteed that when they need a favor in the future, the community will respond in kind.
The Taste of Sodade
The items sent from the islands to the diaspora are often humble but emotionally priceless. A bottle of mel de cana (sugar cane syrup), a bag of pó de terra (local coffee), or hand-rolled pastéis. These items feed the Sodade—the deep, nostalgic longing for the homeland. For a Cape Verdean in the diaspora, eating peixe seco sent via an encomenda is a sensory bridge that makes the thousands of miles between them and their grandmother’s kitchen vanish.
The Evolution: From Suitcases to Logistic Giants
As the diaspora grew and international travel became more frequent, the encomenda system evolved. What started as a personal favor between neighbors has spawned a niche industry. Today, professional “transitários” (freight forwarders) specialize specifically in the Cape Verdean route.
In cities like Brockton, Massachusetts, or Pawtucket, Rhode Island, businesses exist solely to facilitate these shipments. They handle the complex customs paperwork and the logistics of getting that blue barrel from a suburban driveway to a remote village in Fogo or Santo Antão. While these professional services have added a layer of commercialism, the underlying spirit remains the same: a direct link between the migrant and their roots.
Challenges and the Digital Age
The system is not without its frictions. Travelers often groan at the “burden” of the encomenda—the stress of exceeding baggage weight limits or the anxiety of navigating customs with suitcases full of home-made cheese (which often falls foul of international agricultural regulations). There is also the pressure on migrants to constantly provide, a phenomenon known as “remittance fatigue.”
Furthermore, as the second and third generations of Cape Verdeans grow up in the diaspora, the nature of the encomenda is shifting. Younger Cape Verdeans may prefer to send money via apps rather than navigating the logistics of shipping physical goods. However, even in the age of Amazon and global e-commerce, the specific, curated nature of the encomenda remains hard to replace. You cannot yet “Prime” a bottle of authentic, home-distilled grogue from a valley in Santo Antão to a flat in London.
A Legacy of Connection
The contrabando de amizade is a testament to the resilience of Cape Verdean culture. It proves that a nation is not defined by its borders, but by the movement and interconnectedness of its people. Every time a mother in Praia opens a box sent from her son in Paris, or a student in Lisbon tastes the corn from his father’s field in Brava, the encomenda system fulfills its true purpose.
It is a system that defies the cold logic of global economics, replacing it with the warm logic of family and friendship. As long as there are Cape Verdeans seeking a better life abroad and a home to remember, the blue barrels will continue to roll, and the encomendas will continue to carry the heart of the islands across the sea.
Practical Information for the Diaspora
- Shipping Barrels: Most major cities with Cape Verdean populations have dedicated shipping agents. It is recommended to use “door-to-door” services to navigate local customs in Praia or Mindelo.
- Customs Regulations: Be aware that certain food items (like uncured meats or fresh fruit) are prohibited in many countries (especially the US and EU) to prevent the spread of pests.
- Labeling: Always label encomendas clearly with the recipient’s full name and a local Cape Verdean phone number to ensure smooth delivery.
Image: Pexels – Francesco Ungaro
