Cape Verdean Superstitions: A Guide to Local Customs & Beliefs
In the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, where the African coast meets the vast expanse of the deep blue, lies the archipelago of Cabo Verde. To the casual traveler, these islands are a paradise of “Morabeza” (hospitality) and volcanic landscapes. However, beneath the surface of daily life lies a complex, invisible world of spiritual beliefs, protective charms, and ancestral whispers. Cape Verdean superstitions and customs are a fascinating tapestry woven from Portuguese Catholicism and West African mysticism, creating a unique cultural identity that dictates everything from how one enters a house to how a newborn is protected.
The Power of the Evil Eye: “Mau Olhado”
Perhaps the most pervasive superstition in Cape Verde is the fear of the Mau Olhado, or the Evil Eye. It is believed that certain individuals can cause harm, illness, or bad luck simply by looking at someone with envy or excessive admiration. This belief is so deeply rooted that it influences social etiquette across all ten islands.
Children are considered particularly vulnerable to the Evil Eye. It is common to see babies wearing a figa (a small charm shaped like a clenched fist) or a red string around their wrist or ankle for protection. If you compliment a child in Cape Verde, it is customary to follow the praise with the phrase “Deus te abençoe” (God bless you) or to physically touch the child to neutralize any unintended negative energy.
Spirituality and the “Gentio”
Despite the dominance of the Catholic Church, many Cape Verdeans maintain a belief in spirits, often referred to as the gentio or simply almas (souls). These beliefs are particularly strong in the rural areas of Santiago and Fogo. It is believed that the spirits of the ancestors linger near their former homes, watching over their descendants.
One common custom related to these spirits is the pouring of a “libation.” When opening a new bottle of grogue (local sugarcane rum), many Cape Verdeans will pour the first few drops onto the ground. This is an offering to the ancestors, ensuring their blessing before the living partake in the drink. Similarly, whistling at night is strictly forbidden in many households, as it is said to “call the spirits” or invite wandering souls into the home.
Birth, Death, and the Threshold
The transition periods of life—birth and death—are surrounded by a fortress of customs designed to protect the soul. After a baby is born, the mother and child often observe a period of resguardo (seclusion), lasting up to 40 days. During this time, they are protected from drafts, cold water, and too many visitors, as their spirits are considered “open” and susceptible to harm.
Death in Cape Verde is a communal event characterized by the Noite de Vigília (wake). Neighbors and family gather for several nights, drinking coffee and grogue, sharing stories, and praying. There is a deep-seated belief that the mirrors in a house where someone has died must be covered with black cloth. This prevents the spirit of the deceased from becoming trapped in the reflection or from “taking” another family member with them.
The Ritual of the Seventh Night
On the island of Santiago, a unique tradition known as the Sétima Noite (Seventh Night) occurs after a child is born. It is believed that on the seventh night, the “fates” visit the child to decide their future. Family and friends gather to stay awake all night, singing and celebrating, to ensure that only “good” spirits reach the baby and to scare away the feiticeiras (witches) who might try to change the child’s destiny.
Luck, Prosperity, and the Household
Daily life in the islands is governed by small but significant rules to keep bad luck at bay. Many of these would be familiar to Mediterranean or African cultures, but they have taken on a distinct Cape Verdean flavor:
- The Broom: Never sweep the house at night. It is believed that by doing so, you are sweeping away your wealth and good fortune. Furthermore, if you accidentally sweep over someone’s feet, they may never get married.
- Purses on the Floor: Placing a handbag or wallet on the floor is a major taboo. The common saying is “Dinheiro no chão, foge da mão” (Money on the floor runs away from the hand).
- Itchy Palms: If your right palm itches, you are about to receive money. If it’s the left, you’re about to spend it. To ensure the money arrives, one must rub their itchy right palm on a piece of wood.
- The Threshold: One should never stand or sit in the doorway. The threshold is seen as a “liminal space” between worlds, and blocking it is thought to bring bad luck or block the flow of blessings into the home.
The Role of the “Curandeiros”
When superstitions meet physical ailments, many Cape Verdeans turn to curandeiros (traditional healers). These practitioners use a blend of herbal medicine, prayers, and rituals to treat illnesses that modern medicine might struggle to explain, such as quebranto (excessive fatigue caused by the Evil Eye) or ar do vento (illness caused by “bad air”). While modern healthcare is widely available, the cultural trust in traditional remedies remains a cornerstone of island life, especially when the cause of an ailment is suspected to be spiritual.
Why These Traditions Persist
In a globalized world, one might expect these superstitions to fade. However, in Cape Verde, they serve as a vital link to the past. The islands’ history is one of resilience in the face of drought, famine, and the horrors of the Trans-Atlantic slave trade. In such a volatile environment, superstitions provided a sense of control and a framework for understanding the unpredictable.
Today, even for the educated youth in Praia or Mindelo, these customs are less about literal fear and more about cultural identity. Participating in a wake or wearing a protective charm is a way of saying “I belong to this soil and these people.”
Traveling to Cape Verde: What You Should Know
For visitors, understanding these customs is key to practicing “Morabeza.” While travelers aren’t expected to know every superstition, showing respect for local beliefs goes a long way. If you see a red ribbon on a car or a small bowl of water behind a door, know that these are silent guardians of a household’s peace. By respecting the “invisible” world of Cape Verde, you gain a much deeper appreciation for the visible beauty of the islands and the warmth of the people who call them home.
Image: Pexels – Piotrek Wilk
